Zo vlak voor de jaarwisseling – waarin we traditiegetrouw een mooie fles mousserende wijn opentrekken – een aantal aardige weetjes in relatie tot mousserende wijnen van eigen bodem.

Mousserende wijn in Nederland: wist je dat?

Allereerst goed nieuws. We zijn in Nederland in 2020 meer geld gaan uitgeven aan wijn dan in 2019. Nederlanders zijn minder maar beter gaan drinken. We zijn Champagne ook op andere momenten gaan drinken dan alleen met Oud & Nieuw. Nederlanders zijn bereid meer geld uit te geven aan een fles Champagne. Het mag best een tientje meer zijn. Verder nemen wijnspeciaalzaken een upgrade waar van de consumptie van Cava naar Crémants de Bourgogne naar Champagne.

Dat is goed nieuws voor Nederlandse wijnboeren waarvan een behoorlijk aantal mousserende wijnen maken.

Mousserende wijn van Domein Holset in Limburg

Cijfers

In Nederland maken we zo’n miljoen flessen wijn per jaar. Daarvan is ongeveer 10 procent mousserend volgens de méthode traditionelle. Deze techniek van gestimuleerde tweede gisting op de fles – waardoor extra alcohol en de zogenaamde prise de mousse ontstaan – wordt ook in de Champagne streek toegepast. Ook mousserende wijnen als Cava en Crémant worden op basis van deze klassieke methode gemaakt.

In Nederland worden daarnaast ongeveer een kleine tien procent parelwijnen gemaakt. Bij parelwijnen ontstaan de bubbels niet door een klassieke tweede vergisting op de fles maar door toegevoegd koolzuurgas in een tank. Je kunt deze wijnen herkennen aan de kurk met een touwtje.

In ons land worden in minimaal 9 provincies mousserende wijnen gemaakt. Wijngaard de Frysling lanceerde eind 2013 de Noordelijkste mousserende wijn van ons land van de oogst van 2012. In 2021 zal er ook een mousserende wijn van Groningse bodem worden geproduceerd waarmee we in 10 provincies in Nederland kwaliteitswijn met bubbels maken.

De eerste fles bubbels in Nederland

In 1996 kwam Wijngoed Fromberg met de eerste mousserende wijn in Nederland. Dit wijnhuis in Ubachsberg (Limburg) maakt al 24 jaar Ophrys Prestige Brut van de bacchus druif. In 2010 kwam Fromberg met de eerste rosé brut van ons land.

Wijngoed Fromberg kwam in 1996 met de eerste mousserende wijn in Nederland

Gespecialiseerd wijnhuis: 100% focus op mousserende wijnen

In 2010 begon Ralph Huydts met Wijngaard Raarberg met het doel uitsluitend mousserende wijnen te maken van klassieke druivenrassen als chardonnay en pinot noir. Hij was daarmee de eerste in Nederland. Wijngaard Raarberg was tevens de eerste wijngaard met een Urban Winery. Midden in de hippe wijk Wyck in Maastricht is zijn wijnhuis annex wijnhandel gevestigd, waarin ook de wijnmakerij huist.

Pionier Ralph Huydts heeft in 2014 de eerste Magnum met mousserende wijn in ons land geïntroduceerd en bracht als eerste een Blanc de Blanc van 100 procent chardonnay op de markt. In 2021 komt de eerste Blanc de Noir van 100 procent pinot noir in de handel, eveneens van Wijngaard Raarberg.

Mousserende wijnen van Wijngaard Raarberg in Maastricht

Nog meer mousserende wijnhuizen

In Nederland kennen we inmiddels twee andere wijnhuizen die zich honderd procent richten op het produceren van mousserende wijnen.

Domein Holset BruisendWijnHuis kwam in 2014 met een eerste lichting mousserende wijn met eigen etiket. Aan ambitie geen gebrek bij dit wijnhuis in Holset/Lemiers (Limburg). In 2017 werd een logement inclusief proeflokaal en winkel geopend. Dit jaar kwam er een eigen wijnmakerij bij waarin de oogst van 2021 verwerkt zal worden tot een eerste alcoholische gisting. In 2022 komen de flessen op de markt die in de eigen kelder een tweede gisting op fles zijn ondergaan.

Silvia Anthonj van MinZeven in Lelystad (Flevoland) kwam in oktober dit jaar met haar eerste mousserende wijn. Op haar wijngaard zeven meter onder de zeespiegel verbouwd zij een drietal druiven gericht op het smaakprofiel dat haar uniek stukje grond op de voormalige Zuiderzee representeert. Bijzonder is, dat Silvia Anthonj de eerste wijnmaker in Nederland is die haar mousserende wijn op eigen terrein geproduceerd en gebotteld heeft. Al met al is de wijn van deze ambachtelijke wijnmaker een representant van eigen terroir.

Bruut & Bruizend van MinZeven in Lelystad

Over terroir gesproken

Champagne, de mousserende wijn die uit de Champagne streek komt, is over het algemeen geen vin de terroir maar veeleer een vin de la maison. Om zich te onderscheiden creëren de champagnehuizen een eigen stijl van het huis annex merk door het assembleren van de druiven en verschillende jaargangen.

In Nederland zie je dat vrijwel alle wijnboeren kiezen voor het produceren van mousserende wijnen van één oogstjaar. Vaak wordt de basiswijn van 1 of 2 druivenrassen gemaakt. Van houtopvoeding is geen sprake. Nederlandse mousserende wijn kun je min of meer met de Duitse sekt vergelijken. De wijn is fris en fruitig, minder verfijnd en complex dan Champagne.

Uitzonderingen zijn er uiteraard altijd. Zo heeft Domein Aldenborgh in Eys een mousserende wijn van twee jaargangen in de handel, te weten 2011 en 2013. Deze Eyra van honderd procent riesling heeft een vatlagering gehad van anderhalf jaar op meer dan zestig jaar oude eiken vaten in de eigen mergelkelder. Daarna heeft de wijn een sur lie rijping op de fles gehad van vijfeneenhalf jaar. Deze wijn is eveneens een voorbeeld van terroir wijn. De bodem van Gulpener krijt en kundersteen heeft invloed op de smaak. Daarnaast creëert de wijnboer een symbiose tussen de druivenplanten en en omringende natuurlijke gewassen wat zich vertaalt in een eigen aroma en smaak.

Innovatief

Nederlandse wijnboeren zijn en blijven innovatief. Zo zie je dat een aantal van hen de smaak van het produceren van mousserende wijnen te pakken krijgt en spelen met verhoudingen (assemblages) en/of experimenteren met langere rijping.

Silvia Anthonj van MinZeven bijvoorbeeld heeft in een eerste lichting een bronzen editie van negen maanden op gist en negen maanden op fles vrijgegeven. In haar wijnkelder liggen wijnen te rijpen ten behoeve van de zilveren editie (dertig maanden rijping) en gouden editie (vijf jaar rijping).

Ook Ralph Huydts van Wijngaard Raarberg blijft pionieren. Zo komt er in 2021 een Blanc de Blanc op de markt van verschillende jaargangen, te weten 2016, 2017 en 2018.

Bruut & Bruizend van MinZeven in Lelystad

Champagne versus mousserende wijn in Nederland

Vooralsnog zou je kunnen zeggen dat Champagne behoorlijk verschilt van mousserende wijnen die door Nederlandse wijnboeren worden geproduceerd. Is het niet vanwege de herkomst dan wel vanwege de vereiste druivenrassen in de Champagne streek. In Nederland worden allerlei druivenrassen gebruikt, zowel klassieke als nieuwe druivenrassen.

Overeenkomsten zijn er ook. De techniek van de tweede gisting op de fles en vergeet niet: het klimaat. Vanwege de Noordelijke ligging is Nederland uitermate geschikt om mousserende wijn te maken. Zowel in de Champagne streek als in ons land rijpen de druiven langzaam, hebben de druiven een hoge zuurgraad en nooit een overschot aan suiker. Ideaal om wijn met bubbels te maken.

Fantastisch om het jaar 2020 te kunnen afsluiten met het besef dat er een upgrade is ten aanzien van onze bubbelconsumptie.

Niemand kan in de toekomst kijken maar als ik de Nederlandse wijnboeren zo beluister durf ik een verdere upgrade van onze eigen mousserende wijnen wel te voorspellen.

Op een Bruisend 2021!

Bronnen: Peter van Houtert en Hans Burghoorn van de Koninklijke Vereniging van Nederlandse Wijnhandelaren (KVNW); wijnjournalist Gert Crum, Danny Hooijberg van Wijnhuis Bodde, Yvo Erades van wijnspeciaalzaak La Bordelaise, Adam Dijkstra van Wijhoeve de Colonjes, Silvia Anthonj van MinZeven, Peter Pelzer van Domein Aldenborgh, Kirsten Abels van Domein Holset, Ralph Huydts van Wijngaard Raarberg, Elvira Broersma van Wijngaard de Frysling, Paul Bosse van Domaine de Brabantse Wal, Wilco Venhuizen van Wijngaard Bilderhof en Elma Middel van Wijngaard ’t Hoge land/Groot Maarslag.

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  96. You could certainly see your skills within the paintings you write. The sector hopes for more passionate writers like you who are not afraid to mention how they believe. All the time go after your heart. “The point of quotations is that one can use another’s words to be insulting.” by Amanda Cross.

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  101. You could certainly see your skills within the work you write. The sector hopes for more passionate writers like you who aren’t afraid to mention how they believe. At all times go after your heart. “The most profound joy has more of gravity than of gaiety in it.” by Michel de Montaigne.

  102. You could certainly see your skills within the work you write. The sector hopes for more passionate writers like you who aren’t afraid to mention how they believe. At all times go after your heart. “The most profound joy has more of gravity than of gaiety in it.” by Michel de Montaigne.

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  104. You can certainly see your skills within the paintings you write. The sector hopes for even more passionate writers such as you who aren’t afraid to mention how they believe. Always go after your heart. “There are only two industries that refer to their customers as users.” by Edward Tufte.

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  111. You could certainly see your enthusiasm within the work you write. The arena hopes for more passionate writers like you who aren’t afraid to mention how they believe. Always follow your heart. “Golf and sex are about the only things you can enjoy without being good at.” by Jimmy Demaret.

  112. You can definitely see your expertise in the paintings you write. The world hopes for more passionate writers like you who are not afraid to say how they believe. At all times go after your heart.

  113. You could certainly see your skills within the paintings you write. The sector hopes for more passionate writers like you who are not afraid to mention how they believe. All the time go after your heart. “The point of quotations is that one can use another’s words to be insulting.” by Amanda Cross.

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  117. You could definitely see your expertise within the work you write. The sector hopes for more passionate writers such as you who aren’t afraid to say how they believe. At all times go after your heart. “History is the version of past events that people have decided to agree upon.” by Napoleon.

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  121. You could certainly see your skills within the paintings you write. The sector hopes for more passionate writers like you who are not afraid to mention how they believe. All the time go after your heart. “The point of quotations is that one can use another’s words to be insulting.” by Amanda Cross.

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  125. You could certainly see your expertise in the work you write. The sector hopes for more passionate writers such as you who aren’t afraid to say how they believe. All the time follow your heart. “Man is the measure of all things.” by Protagoras.

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  129. You can certainly see your skills within the paintings you write. The sector hopes for even more passionate writers such as you who aren’t afraid to mention how they believe. Always go after your heart. “There are only two industries that refer to their customers as users.” by Edward Tufte.

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  136. You can definitely see your skills in the work you write. The world hopes for more passionate writers like you who are not afraid to mention how they believe. At all times follow your heart.

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  139. You can definitely see your skills in the work you write. The world hopes for more passionate writers like you who are not afraid to mention how they believe. At all times follow your heart.

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